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Whisky Review

Pricing information is up-to-date at time of review but may have changed: please check local retailers.










Our whisky reviews are written by
John Hansell
Publisher & Editor, Malt Advocate magazine


95-100
A classic! All components are balanced appropriately, with the complexity and character expected in a classic.

90-94
Outstanding! One of the best for its style. Distinctive.

80-89
Good to very good. Plenty of character and no identifiable flaws. Worth seeking out.

70-79
Average. No unique qualities. Flaws possible.

60-69
Below average. Major flaws. Avoid.





















97
Black Bowmore, 1964 vintage, 42 year old, 40.5% Price: $4,500.00
What impresses me most is how this whisky evolves; it’s incredibly complex. On the nose and palate, this is a thick, viscous, whisky with notes of sticky toffee, earthy oak, fig cake, roasted nuts, fallen fruit, pancake batter, black cherry, ripe peach, dark chocolate-covered espresso bean, polished leather, tobacco, a hint of wild game, and lingering, leafy damp kiln smoke. Flavors continue on the palate long after swallowing. This is what we all hope for (and dream of) in an older whisky!
(2008 2nd Quarter (Vol. 17, #2))

94
Signatory (distilled at Bowmore), 35 year old, 1970 vintage, 51.9% Price: $500.00
Lush, thick fruit and chewy toffee soothes the assertive notes of earthy peat and leafy bonfire. Underlying smoked nuts, brine, kalamata olives, and tobacco provide continued entertainment. A complex whisky that completely envelops the palate. This is an excellent example of a mature, sherried Bowmore.
(2006 3rd Quarter (Vol. 15, #3))

94
White Bowmore, 1964 vintage, 43 year old, 42.8% Price: $6,000.00
I like this Bowmore better than all the previous bourbon oak-aged, ultra-mature Bowmore whiskies that have been released over the past fifteen years (there have been several). The oak is always present, but not dominant. The whisky really evolves on the palate, just like the Black Bowmore releases. This emphasis here is on fruit, bright fruit: peach, tangerine, mango, ripe melon, and pineapple. There’s a soft, gentle side to the whisky, too, enhanced by sweeter notes of pancake syrup, orange creamsicle, and white chocolate. Heavy oak notes emerge, along with teasing, earthy smoke, to give the whisky depth and bottom notes. The smoke and oak linger long on the finish. Very contemplative. In short, an outstanding whisky, but not quite reaching the excellence of Black Bowmore.
   (Allocation information: 732 bottles available worldwide; 40 bottles are being allocated for the U.S., half of the quantity of Black Bowmore which was released earlier this year.)
(2008 4th Quarter (Vol. 17, #4))

93
Bowmore, 16 year old, 1989 vintage, 51.8% Price: $90.00
No frills here, just pure, unadulterated Bowmore. This Islay whisky speaks of its location in a very pure and natural way. I find invigorating brine, seaweed, green olive, and fishnets, along with the classic Bowmore peat smoke. All these flavors are softened by gentle vanilla and honeyed malt, while background tropical fruit add complexity.
(2006 1st Quarter (Vol. 15, #1))

92
Bowmore Oloroso Sherry Cask, 1964 Vintage Price: $1,500.00
Mahogany color. Medium to full in body, and rich. Aroma and flavors are very reminiscent of the "Black Bowmore" releases: burnt fruit, roasted nuts, fruit cake, polished leather, wood resin, and just a teasing of smoke. There is a harmonious balance between the dry oak spices and the sweet, fruity oloroso sherry notes. Soothing finish.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: Approx. $1,500. Only 300 bottles, available this fall at specialty retailers nationwide (imported by White Rock Distilleries, 207/783-1433). 
   This whisky was distilled around the same time-and is very similar in flavor profile-as the legendary "Black Bowmore" whiskies released several years ago. Comparing this release with the Black Bowmore is only natural. Having tried this whisky next to the previous Black Bowmores, I can happily say that this whisky is as good as they are (although a lot more expensive). While the original Black Bowmore whiskies are a little bigger and fuller in body (especially towards the finish), this new 1964 Vintage is a tad softer, sweeter, more rounded, and more seductive. This is a very contemplative whisky-the more attention you devote to it, the more pleasure it gives you.

(2003 3rd Quarter (Vol. 12, #3))

91
Bowmore, 18 year old, 43% Price: $85.00
This replaces the 17 year old in the standard Bowmore portfolio. (The 17 year old will now be Duty Free Only.) The difference is significant. This one is more sherried than the 17 year old, and it wears the sherry well. I know that many of you, like myself, adore the 17 year old. Indeed, I feel that the 17 year old displays the true essence of Bowmore. But this 18 year old integrates the sherry notes with the Bowmore signature to create a richly flavored Islay whisky experience. Thick toffee, ripe fruit, and tar-tinged smoke are accentuated by dark chocolate, cocoa powder, burnt raisin, dates, and sea salt. Long, entertaining finish.
(2007 2nd Quarter (Vol. 16, #2))

91
Bowmore, 25 year old, 43% Price: $160.00
Amber chestnut color. Aromas of rich sherry, ripe fruit, toffee, molasses, peat smoke, damp oak, and nuts. Medium to full in body. Its flavors start out rich and sweet, with sherried fruit, toffee, and dark chocolate. It then becomes drier with notes of peat, smoked nuts, seaweed and brine, ultimately finishing with notes of spice, bitter chocolate, and smoky smoldering embers.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $160. Available at specialty retailers nationwide (imported by White Rock Distilleries, 207/783-1433). 
   This is a new bottling of Bowmore 25 year old and an improved one at that. It is richer, fuller, and more balanced than its predecessor. A wonderful dram indeed. The 17 year old was my favorite of the standard Bowmore line. Not anymore.

(2003 1st Quarter (Vol. 12, #1))

91
Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bowmore), Cask #85013, 22 year, 1982 vintage, 58.9%, $100 Price: $100.00
A very clean, elegant Bowmore with a naked beauty that shows its Islay roots. You’ll find fresh brine and seaweed on a bed of honeyed malt and soft vanilla cream. Subtle berries, citrus, and melon fruit add a complex fruit dimension. Fresh, appetizing finish. Nicely done! (Exclusive to The Party Source.)
(2006 4th Quarter (Vol. 15, #4))

90
Bowmore Darkest, 15 year old, 43% Price: $65.00
Darkest now has an age statement of 15 years old. This new release is an improvement from the original Darkest, both of which are succulently sherried. It is fuller in flavor and more visceral, in both the nose and palate. These differences are subtle, but positive. Notes of lush fruit, raisin, pot-still rum, and Heath bars. Citrus and wood spices emerge, along with burning peat embers that linger on the finish. Nicely done.
(2007 2nd Quarter (Vol. 16, #2))

90
Bowmore, 34 year old, 1971 vintage, 51% Price: $800.00
A lovely example of a mature, sherried Bowmore. Its rich flavors evolve on the palate and are nicely balanced. Lush fruit, juicy oak, damp peat, and kiln smoke are peppered with cinnamon, raisins, dates, and cocoa. Warming, soothing finish. Not quite Black Bowmore, but a delicious whisky nonetheless.
(2006 1st Quarter (Vol. 15, #1))

89
Blackadder (distilled at Bowmore), 27 years old, 50.5% Price: $160.00
Amber color. Aromas of peat smoke (but more subdued than many Bowmore whiskies in their teens), toasted oak, citrus fruit, vanilla, and a hint of the sea. Its flavors are similar, which express themselves in a very mature manner-oak flavors are more dominant than other components. Still, there is an emerging brine freshness that keeps the whisky from becoming tired and dull. Good, lengthy finish.
 
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $160. Availability: only 244 bottles total (imported by Heartland Wine & Spirits, 877/471-6327).

(2001 2nd Quarter (Vol. 10, #2))

89
Bowmore Claret (56%) Price: $90.00
Amber with orange and ruby hues. Aromas of Islay peat smoke, wine fruit, and background floral and spice notes. Flavors reveal more of what the aroma suggests-peat smoke, fruit, and floral/spice notes-with a balancing oak and subtle sea salt and seaweed. The peat smoke particularly comes in on the finish, lest one forgets where Bowmore hails from.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $90. Availability: only 480 bottles for the entire United States, with the remainder of the 12,000 bottles going to Duty Free (imported by White Rock Distillers, 207/783-1433). 
   There is no age statement on the label, but this whisky has been aged for 12 years in traditional bourbon and sherry barrels, and then finished off for 18 months in Bordeaux (Claret) wine casks. The wine fruit certainly is evident and, like the Glenmorangie Claret Wood Finish offered a year or so ago, will appeal to those with an open mind and willingness to accept new flavors in whisky. Purists will say it detracts from the distillery's character. I believe it's the first smoky whisky that attempts to marry these flavors with claret fruitiness.

(2000 2nd Quarter (Vol. 9, #2))

89
Bowmore Fino Cask, 1964 Vintage, 49.4% Price: $1,500.00
Amber-gold color. Exotic tropical fruit aromas (citrus, melon, coconut), with interwoven notes of almonds, pear, honey, and subtle peat smoke. Light to medium in body, and very delicate in nature. On the palate, the whisky begins sweet (especially honey), followed by a basket of exotic fruit and nuts similar to its aroma, becoming drier and distantly smoky on the finish.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $1,500. Availability: only 40 bottles for the U.S. (imported by White Rock Distilleries, 207/783-1433). 
   This Bowmore Fino Cask, a whisky which has aged very well indeed, is the first of three limited edition 1964 vintage Bowmore whiskies to be released over the next year. The two to follow in 2003 have been aged in bourbon oak and oloros sherry casks.

(2003 1st Quarter (Vol. 12, #1))

89
Bowmore Voyage, no age statement, 56% Price: $120.00
Copper color with shades of ruby. Intriguing aromas of sweet plum, grapes, citrus, peat smoke, seaweed, and brine. Full-bodied and somewhat viscous. Flavors of ripe fruit (plums, grapes, citrus), followed by a burst of more traditional Bowmore flavors (peat smoke, brine, seaweed), finishing with lingering notes of prunes, dates, baker’s chocolate, and licorice.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: Approx. $120. A limited release of 12,000 bottles, 1,200 of which are destined for the United States (imported by White Rock Distilleries, 800/628-5441). 
   While there is no age statement, this whisky was aged for 12 years in bourbon barrels, followed by an additional 18 months in ruby port casks. I believe it is the first distillery bottling to marry port with the traditional flavors of an Islay whisky. Because of this, it is best to keep an open mind when trying this whisky, perhaps even having more than one go at it before rendering a verdict. I suspect the more you try Voyage, the more you will like.

(2001 1st Quarter (Vol. 10, #1))

89
Cadenhead's, (distilled at Bowmore), 16 year old, 1984, 59.4% Price: $125.00
Antique gold color. Aromas of peat smoke, damp earth, exotic pepper, vanilla, and fruit. Medium body. A great balance of flavors, with a lovely Islay character. The whisky begins sweet up front, ultimately turning pleasingly dry towards the finish. In between you'll enjoy flavors of peat smoke, vanilla, spicy pepper, and delicately honeyed malt, with just a hint of the sea.
   Style: Islay single malt scotch. Price: $125. Available nationwide (imported by Preiss Imports, 760/789-6010). 
   What I like most about this whisky is its impeccable balance-between youth and maturity, sweetness and dryness-with just the right amount of peat smoke to declare its Islay roots without smothering its other flavors.

(2002 2nd Quarter (Vol. 11, #2))

87
Bowmore, 1991 Vintage, 16 year old, 53.1% Price: $100.00
Matured in a port pipe. The third in a trilogy (the other two being bourbon and sherry cask-aged). I like this one better than the sherry cask 1990 vintage, but not quite as much as the bourbon cask bottling which was in our Top Ten whiskies two years ago. Lovely amber ruby color. The port flavors are obvious, but not sappy or dominating. They’re clean, and contribute a layered sweetness and ripe red berry fruit notes to the traditional, moderately peated Bowmore smoke and peat. Lingering smoke and chocolate on the finish.
(2008 1st Quarter (Vol. 17, #1))

85
Bowmore Bourbon Cask, 1964 Vintage, 43% Price: $1,500.00

Amber color. Complex, exotic aromas of vanilla fudge, coconut, white chocolate, plum, cherry, citrus, and a hint of smoke and bourbon. Light to medium in body and delicate. On the palate, there’s a brief encounter of caramel and fruits mentioned above. After that, most of the flavors come from the wood-dry vanilla, mint, layered spicy oak notes, with some smoke emerging from time to time. Dry, oaky finish. >

Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $1,500. Available at specialty retailers nationwide May 2003 (imported by White Rock Distilleries, 207/783-1433).

I am in love with the aroma-it’s so exotic and intriguing. I would pay just to smell this whisky. But the flavors on the palate are less exotic and more influenced by the wood.


(2003 2nd Quarter (Vol. 12, #2))

85
Bowmore, 37 year old, 1968 vintage, 43.4% Price: $1,000.00
Every once in a while you get whisky where the palate is completely different than the nose. This is one of those whiskies. Aged in bourbon casks and 37 years old, its aroma expresses tropical fruits (similar to other older Bowmores), with papaya, lemon, mango, strawberry, coconut, and banana. This is balanced by vanilla, crème brûlée, honey, and just a wisp of smoke. Bowmore’s Islay roots are more expressive on the palate, which starts off sweet and slightly oily, quickly evolving to tropical fruit, damp oak, and then leafy smoke through to the finish. The sweetness emerges again towards the finish, with subtle brine and seaweed. (120 bottles for the U.S.)
(2006 4th Quarter (Vol. 15, #4))

85
Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bowmore), 21 year old, 1982 Vintage, Cask #8501, 59% Price: $180.00
review required
(1992 1st Quarter (Vol. 1, #1))

85
Whisky Galore (distilled at Bowmore), 16 year old, 1987 Vintage, 46% Price: $74.00
Aged in a sherry cask, and the lush fruity notes add dimension and richness without masking the whisky’s other flavors. Its flavors are reminiscent of crumbled peat thrown over a campfire; damp earth, anise, and floral notes throughout, dovetailing with the lush sherried fruit. Smoky, briny finish. A well-rounded dram.
(2005 1st Quarter (Vol. 14, #1))

83
Bowmore “Wine Cask Matured”, 1992 vintage, 16 year old, 53.5% Price: $120.00
Aged for six years in bourbon casks, then aged an additional ten years in Bordeaux wine casks. Classic Bowmore peat smoke and red berried fruit (raspberry, strawberry) are the main components of this whisky, with additional notes of plum, grape skin tannins, currant, caramel, and marzipan. Good grip from the Limousin oak (wine casks). Some brine and damp cellar notes emerged occasionally, with the smoke lingering long on the finish.
(2008 4th Quarter (Vol. 17, #4))

81
Peerless (distilled at Bowmore) 1966, 36 year old, 45.3% Price: $160.00
Full gold color. Layers of citrus fruit on the nose (especially Seville orange, lemon, grapefruit), with just a faint hint of peat smoke and floral, herbal notes. Light to medium in body. It tastes similar in many ways to its aroma-there’s plenty of citrus fruit. The fruit comes first, followed by the classic "older Bowmore" oaky dryness. An echo of flavors repeats this sequence-first the citrus fruit, then the dry oak flavors. Some peat smoke teases in the background, but is mostly restrained. Fry, oaky, faintly peaty finish.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $160. Available at select retailers (imported by Duncan Taylor & Co, 323/960-9065). 
   This whisky is classic older Bowmore (30+ years), with its exotic citrus fruit, distinctive oaky dryness, and faintest hint of peat smoke.

(2003 2nd Quarter (Vol. 12, #2))

78
Bowmore, 16 year old, 1990 vintage, 53.8% Price: $85.00
A sherry cask-matured Bowmore. Introduced as "the brother" to the 1989 vintage Bowmore released about a year ago (aged in bourbon casks). Notes of waxed fruit, dates, fruitcake, and raisin permeate through tarry rope, leather boots, wet socks, and ripe peat. Underlying notes of demerara rum, chocolate-covered coffee beans, and sea salt. A hedonistic Bowmore with an earthy, rustic demeanor. (1,800 bottles for the U.S.)
(2006 4th Quarter (Vol. 15, #4))

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